Scott Sandler’s take on using a simple pizza dough method called a straight dough mix or direct mix.
Sourdough? Pre-Ferments, Biga, Poolish? Confused yet? Okay, you watched a few videos, heard some chatter, saw the trends, followed some influencers, etc. and now you want to do “sourdough” pizza. News flash: you don’t need any of these fancy techniques to make great dough. There is a simple method called a straight dough mix or direct mix.
For those new to the industry, this means you throw everything in the mixing bowl and just mix for 20 to 25 minutes until very smooth. I do a blend of local whole wheat, bread flour and 00 flour. You can just use one flour straight out of the bag. Let sit for 15 minutes after the mixing is done and then roll up into balls. After the mixing, let the dough balls sit for about 3 to 6 hours then into the fridge for overnight or longer or leave out at room temp for 12 hours then use. The amount of yeast will vary but typically I’ll do a 1/2 teaspoon of instant yeast per 25 pounds of flour. In an emergency you can make dough in the morning for same day use but double the yeast, leave the dough out and use in the evening.
Popularity of these “bread” techniques bleeding into the pizza world started with artisan bread makers realizing they can make pizza on a Friday night and make some good money. Don’t get me wrong when done right these ‘fancy’ techniques can make outstanding pizza and they do. Key word here though, is done “right”.
Without question bread makers have elevated the pizza game. Then during COVID, millions took to making bread and pizza. Oven technology along with so much open-source information available created an environment where the masses could make great pizza. The secret is out, pizza has high margins and sells. Well, it just happens to be the most popular food in the world.
With so much information and misinformation out there, it can get very foggy. There’s a general misconception about what makes good dough. Group thought would have you believe that the only way to do pizza right is “sourdough” or that the longer you ferment your dough or the higher your hydration the pizza is somehow better. I beg to differ.
Let me spell out the advantages of doing a direct mix.
- Time. To put it together takes minimal time and it is not an involved process.
- Labor. A not-so-small amount of labor is saved by the direct mix method and training is much easier.
- Consistency. With this method there are less mistakes, and you are going to get more consistent results.
- Margins are better based on less product used, labor savings and the avoidance of costly mistakes.
Ultimately, it’s your choice how you want to make your dough. Whatever method you use when executed properly will produce outstanding pizza. The 10,000-foot view is this: it’s the care and attention given to the craft which are more important than any one particular thing when producing an outstanding pizza. However, sometimes simple is just better.
Scott Sandler owns Pizza Via in St. Louis, Missouri.
